FASHION CRITIQUE
FASHION WEEK SPRING SUMMER 2023
Written by James V. Thomas
Milan, June 17th, 2022
B+ UMIT BENAN
Umit Benan is one of those under-the-radar designers that really has a great understanding of being oh-so-chic and totally contemporary at the same time. Slouchy tailoring and rich fabrics, complimented by a simple but bold color palette, this collection is everything we want already. Cream, sabayon, striking red, black, and touches of shirting stripes in the form of a djellaba under suit jackets - Dress up or dress down, but still a walking vision of elegance.
Paris, July 6th, 2022
BALENCIAGA
I usually don't cover Balenciaga, or couture, but I do have to give them credits where they are due - Balenciaga's tailoring is rather incredible. It has a beautiful form and shape that is rare to find. It is quintessentialy modern, and timeless. A collection reserved for the uber-rich and celebrity jet-set sadly, the couture line is rather impressive in it's bold simplicity and maximilist minimalism.
Rome, June 18th, 2022
BRIONI
Delivering a consistant collection of appealing cuts, colors, and fabrics, Norbert Stumpfl inspires us once again to dawn a wardrobe of sprezzatura elegance that breaks free of the worn-down sartorial confines of pitti uomo. Elegant, flattering, and sometimes surprising mixes, bring us into a seaside (lakeside?) fantasy or vision of beauty. Unlined and lightweight suits, Brioni also offers the option of clothing that won't necessarily boil us during the 35° C plus summer temperatures that we are now accustomed to.
Paris, June 27th, 2022
CELINE
Hedi Slimane continues his direction of mod-suits and "non-fashion" this season, offereing look after look that can be dissected piece by piece. Something I always find important to note with Hedi's collections, is that it really is a piece by piece affair. The perfect leather jacket, the perfect and loyal sport-coat that will always be the right choice, a certain weight and fall to the piece that just makes me want to wear it. This season was no different, and naturally very similar to his other seasons at Celine (or even Saint Laurent) but I will still buy the coats, the jackets, the shoes, and the bags. Celine is all about knowing how to style with other brands, not only the direct runway look.
Paris, June 26th, 2022
COURRÈGES
Courrèges has come back (once again) like a bomb in the fashion-world, re-creating it's space-age minimalism with a touch of youthful joy. Very popular amongst the late Gen-Z crowd and millenials, the collection this season for men is a simple collection of garments that in reality, don't even need to be marked "Courrèges". Tank tops, tight on the theighs and slightly bell-bottomed trousers, leather motorcycle jackets, and cargo pants, it seems the little white embroidered Courrèges logo and the fanfare around it are more of the draw than the clothes themselves. Is this the continuation of this on going Ludovic de Saint Sernin style trend? Cheap uncomplicated clothing that is styled and worn by young sexy things? The new interpretation of Helmut Lang?
London, June 13th, 2022
DUNHILL
Mark Weston continues his line of modern suiting - unusual selecitons of fabrics that work seamlessly with the somewhat oversized cuts, and a strong almost sporty color palette, Dunhill has definitely created a style for itself during the past few years. Although I prefer the Dunhill of John Ray, Mark Weston has indeed found a way to cater to a more sportswear oriented audience and keep the house afloat.
Paris, June 25th, 2022
HERMÈS
Véronique Nichinian, the head-designer for Hermès' menswear line, never seems to propose anything groundbreaking, but she does propose a piece-by-piece collection of extremely wearable and comfortable clothing, made in discreetly luxurious fabrics. Nothing seems quite as expensive as a pair of white Hermès chinos, with a subtle grain to the fabric, similar to raw silk. Lightweight, no frills, and just the right touch, this collection hits hard once again in being an excellent source of Summer inspiration. Many designers lack the ability to design Summer clothing that is fitting for summer weather : The tropical climates of the Carribean, The humid streets of Singapore, The searing sun of Doha - Men need options to dress appropriately and retain a certain decency. Véronique delivers. Although there are a few turtlenecks coming down the runway, pleated shorts and lightweight jackets that seemed to have morphed out of a button up shirt reign supreme here, and draw us into summer neutral tones that will play out perfectly at patio of the Eden Rock Saint Barths. This may even be one of the few collections where I can say that the elasticated waist band on the trousers doesn't offend me.
Paris, June 29th, 2022
THE ROW
Typically dull, The Row collection this season presented us more of a style-guide than actual amazing clothing. That said, the quality is something to be noted, and the proposition of style is a good one. We really love that green bag and the general oversized mood.
Florence, June 14th, 2022
WALES BONNER
I find the collection of Wales Bonner to be light and refreshing - always something I could imagine myself wearing, with a touch of sophistication that may come in the form of a zebra-printed fur shoe. Her designs also remind me of Stefano Pilati in his YSL era, designing a mix of paint-splattered denim and leather high heeled boots. There is a certain contemporary elegance to her work, and an interesting respect to the world of classicism. For this show, she presented at the Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence, built in the 15th century. The building has quite a history pertaining to Christianity, and attending culture reigning from Armenians, Ethiopians, Moorish, Berber, and black Africa. This context served as evidence that the building around has played a role in the history of Black agency and participation in Renaissance Italy. The artist Ibrahim Mahama clad the space in a huge patchwork of hand stitched jute sacks originally used to export cocoa from his home country of Ghana—where Wales Bonner met him several months ago—into the global markets. “It was important to have an equal representation within the space,” said Wales Bonner. Wales Bonner is quite skilled in bringing, as she says, an "Afro-Atlantic spirit into Europeaen luxury by honoring these traditions wherever they are."
Sky Blue
Est. 2019