Parisian Evenings
Serpent à Plume
Restaurant, Bar, and Club - Published in Issue N°V
Written by Kyle Edward-Dyson, Photography by Fabien Montique
Place des Vosges has always been considered the place to be in Paris. Located in the forever chic Marais district of the 3e arrondissement, this square has a notable history that is very much worth mentioning. Fashionable and expensive are a few words that have been used to define the reputation of Place des Vosges. Originally called Place Royale, this iconic square has been connected to notable patrons of the arts such as Catherine de Medicis, the great Romantic literary figure Victor Hugo, and, in more recent history, Georges Dufrénoy, the post-impressionist painter whose landscape paintings of Place des Vosges depict how charming the square was a hundred years ago.
Today, the energy of Place des Vosges is still one that allows for the assembly of artists and their muses. In fact, located at 24 Place des Vosges, you will discover Serpent à Plume, a social club that rivals the very concept of a speakeasy. A conceptual establishment, known for hosting experiences for those who come with open minds and curiosity. Serpent à Plume offers all guests the premier services of a restaurant and bar, and if you are among the chosen, there is more. One may find themselves in attendance at any number of events that occupy the space, ranging from LGBTQ+ baptisms hosted around the private bath or immersive dinner experiences in the private apartment under the bold themes chosen by the owner of the club, Alexander Rash.
The club downstairs at Serpent à Plume.
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Conceived in 2020, this unique habitat is for artists and eclectic individuals looking for a place to be themselves. The environment is an immersive experience with a constant contrast of highs and lows, feeding your inspiration and deepest desires. From the moment you step inside, you are greeted by a unique collection of art, from 3000-year-old Mesoamerican pieces to the 1970’s De Sede Modular serpent-like sofa. Alexander’s favorite piece, “Mistress Christelle,” is a painting that sets the tone. A woman sits erotically while her dog fixes his gaze upon her in desire. Every oddity you rest your eye on here has been placed with the intention of providing your senses with a feast. Creatives of all types flock to Serpent à Plume for its vibrant colors, good libations, music, and unique parties. There is no secret to attracting the rare birds in a city such as Paris when you understand the alchemy of the mind of the President of Serpent à Plume, Alexander Rash.
Interview
Alexander Rash in the appartments upstairs at the Serpent à Plume, available for special occasions.
Skyblue Review : Le serpent à plume, why did you choose this name?
Alexander Rash: The Serpent à Plume, is referred to as Quetzalcoatl in one of the major deities of the ancient Mexican pantheon. Quetzalcoatl, a cultural hero and legendary ruler, who transforms himself into the “Feathered Serpent”. Roaming the underworld and rising, weightless, up through the stars, the feathered serpent marries the human and the divine. This dualism embodies the different elements of the old and the new.
Can you tell us a bit about the history of the location?
I opened the Serpent à Plume on Friday the 13th of April 2018 hoping to blend together a place where bright ideas and relentless adventure meet in the oldest square of Paris: 24 Place des Vosges. Serpent à Plume offers real services and aims to create an experience stimulating all senses. Our unconventional programming and the aesthetic universe are the ultimate manifestations of how we create community. From our restaurant to our cocktail bar, each day is spent without repetition. Cats, thieves, and illicit lovers lose themselves to music and food as they leave reality behind.
What does a typical day look like?
No two days resemble themselves at the Serpent à Plume. That is probably our greatest strength as it is our greatest weakness. Since I am a reasonably young restaurateur, I am still innovating different ways to integrate jazz soirées, with techno downtempo in an artistic setting to have a meal.
Why did you choose your line of work?
The process of opening the Serpent à Plume was very organic. The space found me and I decided it was time to add a dose of magic to the Place Des Vosges. I really enjoy the process of hosting people in a “lieu de vie” and there are few things that bring people better than a meal and a nice glass of scotch.
The most beautiful evening that you ever organized?
For my thirtieth birthday, I organized a reverse surprise party. I invited half of the guests with a strict black tie dress code and the other half with a BDSM dress code. It was a wonderful mix of people who all played the part. In the end, everyone was basically down to their knickers and that moment in time was also not photographed due to the no cellphone policy. We all have a strong memory of that evening, an impression that lasts longer than the rope and whip marks.
The main restaurant on the ground level.
Can you tell us some of the most outlandish or excessive things that have happened at the Serpent à Plume?
If the jacuzzi could speak it would have some interesting stories to share, but I think the best way to understand its unique characteristics is to come to experience our universe for yourself.
Is there a particular color or shade that you’re drawn to, and if so, is there a reason?
Vincent Darré once told me “Alexander, ma couleur préférée est tout ce qui brille”. While I don’t agree with this, I thought that colors are largely how you defend them. It’s impossible to pick just one, but I would defend various complementary colors: Shades of sea foam green & beige, Pink, and Chocolate Brown.
Can you describe to us the unique uniforms of Serpent à Plume?
The uniforms are inspired by a vintage bellboy look and were designed by Alejandro Gomez of Palomo Spain as a gift.
Someone you met only for one night but who left a lasting impression on you?
When I met Tea Plume doing the coat check at the Serpent à Plume I knew she had extraordinary capabilities. The way she drew love letters asking couples to break up and start smoking opium with her on the back of the Serpent à Plume business cards, and then hiding them in the jackets she was guarding was romantically dark. Tea Plume is really special.
What is an elegant man for you?
Elegance in general should include great manners, and the ability to interact with a broad scope of people. It’s also important to know how to break character when necessary, not everyone should be able to crack your mystery in the first few interactions.
What is your opinion on fashion?
I am drawn to tailoring not because I have to wear a suit, but because I want to. In a world where loungewear and streetwear dominate the industry, wearing a necktie today has become relatively transgressive in its own right.
Is there a brand or designer that you are particularly loyal to?
Yes, almost all of my suits today are made by Fratelli Mocchia di Coggiola, two Italian brothers in Paris. At the moment, they are the best place to make a suit in Paris.
Do you obsess over details? If so, any in particular, and why?
Yes, but in a very romantic way. If we are out on the road and we have to sleep under a bridge I want it to be the best stone arched bridge near a river with a few tags here and there, no needles but some other travelers who mill about.
Relaxing in the window balcony at Serpent à Plume - coat from Loewe.
The most romantic cocktail?
The most romantic cocktail is a corpse reviver No 2. Equal parts gin, Lillet Blanc, Cointreau, Lime Juice, and a dash of Absinthe. Two will sit a man down.
What do you think of the art industry today?
The art industry today is highly speculative, and while there are many spectacular art installations and galleries showing wonderful artists, I tend to stay away from this market. I prefer to go to Hotel Drouot in Paris once or twice a week. You will never form a better artistic appetite about art than from this place. Two days per week you have exhibitions, then the day after everything is sold. You get real discoveries as opposed to major auction companies, where the majority focus on contemporary art, and the status quo is largely predefined and overpriced. I only go to bear witness to the chef d’oeuvres in person before they go into private hands. It all gets a bit hostile after a while, but not at Hotel Drouot.
A particular type of music that would keep you dancing all night?
A set from Rene Wise & Lea Occi at the Berghain in Berlin would make my hips swing all night. Just pure, raw energy.
A piece of art that you would like to have at your home?
I would love to own a Fabergé Imperial egg. Not only refined and rare, but most importantly these masterpieces of decorative art are also regarded as part of the legacy and historical record connected to the last days of the Romanov Dynasty.
Any future projects that you would like to discuss with us?
I am opening Café Du Canal, located at 52 Rue Bichat in the 10th district along Canal Saint Martin. The Café du Canal will be a new place in an old building with a sort of diner feel from the 50s. Just as romantic as the Serpent à Plume, but much more subtle and tranquil without all the dancing and jacuzzi splashing. The Café Du Canal is the more adult version of myself.
Lastly, If there was one person you could have in the Jacuzzi who would that be?
The muse of Salvador Dali and french singer, Amanda Lear.
CREDITS
Written by Kyle Edward-Dyson, Photography by Fabien Montique.
Article originally published in Issue N°V of Sky Blue, 2023.
Sky Blue
Est. 2019