In conversation with François Sagat.
Paris, Parc Monceau, 2023.
Written by James V. Thomas
Photography and video by Anna Prokulevich
Appeared in Issue N°V of Sky Blue - Gentleman's Review
James
We know a lot about your work behind the camera, but I’ve also heard that you went to Studio Berçot, the same school I graduated from. Can you tell us what inspired you to attend Berçot and share your memories and experiences there?
François
I was a teenager in the ’90s, growing up during the supermodel era. When I was 12 or 13, my dream was to meet Nadja Auermann, Claudia Schiffer, and Cindy Crawford. It was all about the girls—I didn’t really care about the fashion back then. I was obsessed with Harper’s Bazaar, buying old magazines and immersing myself in them. Over time, I became familiar with the world of fashion.
I thought, Should I go to a fashion school? Maybe, since I was really good at drawing. So I decided to move to Paris on my own—it wasn’t a hard transition. At Berçot, all the teachers were into Helmut Lang, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto, while I was into the complete opposite. I loved the old ’90s couture and the supermodel style.
James
I had a very similar story. I loved drawing and painting—not necessarily fashion—but it seemed like the most lucrative industry for someone inclined toward those mediums. Where are you originally from?
François
I’m from Cognac.
James
Are you very savvy about Cognac?
François
No, I’m not crazy about it. It’s good with tonic, according to my mom. Anyway, moving to Paris was easy, but school was tough. The professors were famously harsh during corrections. When I arrived, I was in love with the Mugler/Claude Montana aesthetic.
Jacket from Prada, sunglasses from Gucci.
James
Did you meet Thierry Mugler?
François
Many times—including last year at his exhibition. I always admired his supernatural take on fashion. It was like a sexual fantasy, what gay men imagined about women. His style was immediately recognizable, as were most designers back then. Fashion had its families, its tribes: Versace, Yves Saint Laurent… and there was a hierarchy. The system was very different.
I also met Claude Montana. He was sweet to me. I was obsessed with Amber Valletta. One night at Queen, drunk, I chatted with Claude—also drunk—and mentioned how much I admired Amber. He told me I’d better not meet her because, apparently, she was a connasse!
James
Are you still in contact with Marie Rucki, the headmistress of Studio Berçot?
François
No. The last time I saw her was six years ago at a cocktail party. I approached her with champagne, reintroduced myself, and asked if she remembered me. She said, “Of course I remember you!”—all the way back to 1998. She was tough on students, but there were so many of us.
James
Were you a good student?
François
I always finished my drawings and collections on time, but I skipped sewing classes—a mistake in hindsight. Marie often criticized my work, saying it was too old or too slutty. My drawings stood out immediately. At the time, I loved Vivienne Westwood, and I still do. If I had to pick one favorite designer, it would be her. The English are very strong in fashion.
All pieces by Prada.
James
Did you work in fashion after Berçot?
François
Yes, I interned at Mugler. It was incredible being in the studio on Rue des Ours, near the police station and Le Dépôt. The office had mirrored doors, and we were all quite close. Mugler himself was fascinating. I remember Iman and Jerry Hall coming in often. I even made coffee for Jerry—she was very kind.
James
Any dramatic stories from that time?
François
Not really. The models were lovely, except one: Kylie Bax. She was rude to the hairdresser once, but that’s it.
James
Are there any fashion brands you admire today?
François
(Sighs) Westwood, of course. Nicolas Ghesquière is another. His vision is timeless. I worked as an assistant at Balenciaga during his years there, and his process was genius. He’s one of the last true designers. I’m less interested in Vuitton—it’s too expensive for me—but I can’t ignore Balenciaga under Demna. Many people call themselves designers now, but they’re just businessmen.
James
How did you create the persona you have today?
François
It’s been a long process. I think I’ve become the person I was meant to be, but it didn’t happen overnight. I’m still discreet and reserved. Physically, I wanted to look masculine—what some might call toxic masculinity, though I see it differently. Masculinity takes many forms, and it doesn’t define who I am inside.
I started balding at 17, and eventually shaved my head. To fake the appearance of very short hair, I had my scalp tattooed. It’s become part of my “brand,” though that wasn’t intentional.
James
Do you have any unique rituals?
François
I curl my eyelashes every morning. I used to use a heated spoon, but now I prefer an eyelash curler. I also wear perfume before bed—right now, Terre d’Hermès.
James
Do you believe in polyamory?
François
It’s possible to love different people in different ways. For me, though, those relationships would exist separately.
James
Thank you very much for speaking with us today.
François
Merci beaucoup, James. À bientôt.
Sky Blue
Est. 2019